Friday, September 25, 2020

Foreboding Fromagerie: Rooms 1-3

(note: this dungeon is under construction - links to monsters and other rooms are missing.  The rest will be published over the course of several weeks)


The main entrance and the great hall

Dungeon history link
Dungeon Main Page
Main Map Page

Map segment by Dyson Logos, with some edits
(note 1 square = 10 feet)

intro:

The adventurers have traveled days, following a crude map sold to them by a bard for a few silvers and an interesting tale.  A hidden trapdoor in an abandoned hut in the forest led to a fantastical facility, where a mad wizard used to live.  No one has heard of the wizard in decades, and there is surely valuable treasure there.  Lean on coin, the adventurers follow the lead...

... the bard told the truth!  There was a large, hidden trap-door in the hut.  The stairs leading down from it are old and dusty, although there seems to have been some traffic here recently... you may not be alone in here.

Room 1:  The Entrance

By Ancalagon

The stairs lead down at least 50 feet - and a pungent cheesy odor increases with every step.  The stairs open into a rooms roughly 30 by 30 feet - the room is somewhat illuminated from the north side, where a balcony overlooks a great, noisy hall lit with lanterns.   This hall is the source of the cheesy odor and is a site of a great deal of activity.  Large vats of liquids, pipes, metal grates and other devices are being tended by a group of mechanical beings, each being built to fulfill specific tasks - they do not seem to notice the party, being too focused on their work. The balcony is about 20 feet above the floor of the hall below.

To the east and west of the room, stairs lead down further from the room.

1a:  at the corner of the stairs/hall to the east is a small privy.  It is lit by a small lantern affixed to the wall.


Room 2:  The Production Floor (the Great Hall)

By Oblidisideryptch


This great hall is filled with an overpowering smell of salt and cheese. Pipes coming from the east (room 17) lead to two coagulation pools. The pipes then go from these pools and terminate into three draining grates. Cheesecloth golems remove bags of cheese from the grates and move them to production rooms. An orange maintenance golem makes a circuit around this room and room 17 every 10 minutes (50% chance of being in one or the other). 

The pipes snaking across the floor come from room 17 east to the coagulation pools, then from the pool to the three draining grates

The various golems operating this room are not hostile to the PCs as long as they do not interfere with cheese production.  All golems' power cores are exposed on the back of their necks. If any golem’s power core is removed, it can be used to power spells or other golems. The orange maintenance golem will track down any core thief in Room 2 or 17 within 1d3 minutes.

The coagulation pools are a 50’ x 20’ rectangle bisected north-south set against the southern wall, directly below the balcony of Room 1. They are host to the largest bacterial minds in the dungeon, whispering in susurrus underneath the rumbling of golems. If you listen, they will offer an exchange - biological material for information. Each one regards the other as its mortal enemy. They snipe at each other constantly.
The White Keese is at the bottom of the western pool and the Yellow Keese is at the bottom of the eastern pool. Each bacteria will not give its Keese up unless fed a living creature. Pipes run northeast from the pools to the three draining grates.
Falling in either of these pools infects a creature with the colony and deals 1d6 damage per round as the bacteria start to consume you.  A cure disease, wish spell or quick and thorough washing are the only cures.

Bacterial Secrets (1d4)
1- The basic contents of a random dungeon room, but not its location
2- A secret held by a sentient creature
3- Exact location of an item but no directions
4- One truth about a dungeon denizen and one lie

The three draining grates are each 10’ and 20’ long. Each one is attended by a cheesecloth golem, and the area underneath is scoured by cleaning slimes.
The cheesecloth golems are all purple. Each one has a massive roll of magical cheesecloth on its back that unrolls constantly, snipped into bag-size chunks by a secondary pair of scissor arms. The golems bag the cheese and carry it off to production rooms, while the slimes keep the floor clean of cheese drippings.

The cleaning slimes are individually cat-sized, transparent blobs trained to break down liquid and solid messes. They will swarm filthy areas, objects, and people. Each one has a small orb in its center. Grabbing this orb will let you give one-word commands to the slime, but will cause 2d10 slimes to swarm you. They can only be killed by diluting them in gallons of pure water.

The magical cheesecloth can be used to safely transport magical solids without risk of infection, exposure, or colonization. The cheesecloth golems will snip at anyone attempting to steal some.

The production rooms are 6 multipurpose facilities in the eastern wing of Room 2 designed to accommodate the wizard’s whims. Each one is a 10’ x 10’ square. They are patrolled by a red golem, and occasionally staffed by cheese goblins when their interests align with the wizard’s.

What is this production room being used for? (1d10)

1 - Huge mess! 2d10 cleaning slimes versus one cheese ooze with a random Cheese Culture property (see room 17). 2 cheese goblins are cowering in a corner. If rescued, you will earn a clan’s gratitude.
2  - One golem is flipping wheels of Diamond Reggiano, the only cheese with a corundum crust. This cheese’s flavor and potency is legendary. If only there was a way to cut it...
3 - Storage for decommissioned golems. 1d4 golems in varying states of repair, all lacking power cores. Some tools and golem control keese on a table.
4 - Four goblins industriously chipping several pieces of cheese out of amber to cultivate forgotten bacterial cultures.
5, 6 or 7 - Storage for a cheese with a random Cheese Culture, nearly matured. Mature Cultured Cheeses grant a beneficial effect when consumed.
8 - Dumping tub for failed cheeses. Toxins lethal to cheese creatures can be obtained here.
9 - Room with several standard diving dresses (old scuba suits) designed to wade into milk vats. Each one connects to a hand-cranked air pump.
10 - Two goblins carefully culturing a new bacterial mix, Nuclear Halloumi. If disturbed, the culture may achieve criticality.

To the north and south, balconies 20 feet above overlook the room.  A pair of wide stairs lead down to the west, leading to room 3.  A door to the south lead to stairs leading to room 1.  Two corridors least east to room 17, and two more lead north to room 11 and beyond.


Room 3:  The Creamery Cascade

By DIY and Dragons

This room is dominated by a three-tiered tea-set fountain and a river of milk that divides the room in half, running west to east. Dozens of wooden crates are pushed against the northern and southern walls. This is a high-traffic area, certain to result in a random encounter.

The tea-set fountain dominates the western side of the room. Accessing the hall behind it requires carefully squeezing around it. The fountain is made of three tiers of enormous tea cups sitting in saucers, topped by a tilting milk jug that pours outward and to the east. The bottom tier is 10’ wide, and the fountain stands over 6’ tall.

The entire fountain is filled with milk that bubbles up the tiers and spills out the top, pouring down into a deep channel in the floor, forming the river of milk. The cups and saucers are bone white, decorated with blue floral motifs, the milk is a pale creamy yellow by comparison.

The bottom tier of the fountain is filled with skimmed-milk, the middle tier with half-and-half, and the top tier with heavy-cream. (These look identical but taste different!) The contents of the fountain combine to form whole-milk in the river. The milk here is room temperature and frothed from the fountain’s aeration.

The river of milk runs west to east, flowing 40’ across the room in a 10’ wide channel before disappearing into an opening set into the bottom of the east wall. The river runs rapidly and will quickly carry away anything dropped into it.

Dungeon natives typically collect whole-milk from the river to avoid touching the fountain. Stepping into the river or dropping anything into it will provoke an immediate hostile response.

The wooden crates are mostly empty but hold a handful of larger metal milk cans (1d6 on each side) and smaller glass milk bottles (1d12 on each side). The dungeon natives use these to collect their milk, and eventually return them sparkling clean.

Representatives of every faction in the Fromagerie come here to collect milk for their projects. This room is never empty for more than a turn before another random encounter arrives. Flip a coin to determine their location, heads are north, tails are south. Dungeon natives won’t cross the river or squeeze behind the fountain.

Dungeon natives observe a kind of truce in this room, and will make conversation while they collect their milk. Depending on their mood, they might chat about their own project, or be suspicious of the player characters’ motives or intentions. Regardless of their disposition, they will avoid combat unless the characters endanger the purity of the milk, and will seek to capture them if they do, as this is perceived as a crime that requires deliberative justice.

On a wall, a crude diagram is painted:  

This diagram is a clue/map to a series of crawlspace - they are hidden behind a panel underneath the diagram.  They lead to room 6 (upper left),  room 15 (all the way right, ie east) and 16 (going north then right, ie upper right).  These corridors house pipes that connect rooms 3, 15 and 16 together and are quite cramped.  The tight quarters do not bother the goblins of course.  The short passage to room 16 is narrower still and does not have any pipes.  


Connections to other rooms: Pipes run into this room from room 4 to the north, feeding the fountain, as well as a metal bar door (unlocked). The milk originates in room 16; sabotage there will dry up the fountain and the river. The river of milk feeds more pipes that run beneath room 2 and eventually carry the milk (and anything that falls into it) to room 15 for storage.  Double stairs lead to room 2 to the west.  Another set of stairs lead to room 22 to the south. Squeezing behind the fountain can lead to room 8.

Foreboding Fromagerie Master Post

(This is the main post, if you are going to link to the Foreboding Fromagerie, please link here!)

The Foreboding Fromagerie 

This is a collective project by the OSR discord collective.  I had the idea of having a collective dungeon where each person would do a room or two.  A theme and a name were soon proposed, and here we are!  

This is not playtested material - yet.  Many of the creators will be running the dungeon and this will be, in time, *very* well playtested.  Adjustments will be made.  This is also a dungeon in construction - I am not done.  Depending on the moment you see this post, it may or may not be in a playable state (at the moment, with the monsters missing, it is not).

Dungeon Index:
(More to follow)



Future things to add:  
Future PDF, maybe DrivethruRPG etc
Intro, hooks and history
Running the Fromagerie: Dungeon Procedure & graffiti.
Fun stuff about cheese
Bestiary, Random encounters and factions
The Wizard
Reviews and playthroughs
Guide to Collective Dungeon Building

Credits 
(note this section is incomplete)

Original Idea, Dungeon Director, Editor, web publisher, official contact, archivist, person to blame:  Ancalagon (i.e. me)

I had the idea for a collective dungeon, I set the general direction (although not the theme), stitched rooms together, made adjustments etc.  The great majority of the creativity and wondrous ideas came from the numerous participants in this collective dungeon project.   So while I "made it happen", it would have been impossible without them.  Small changes were sometimes needed - I apologize to the authors, and I hope they understand.  If any room has deficiencies... it's my fault :)

I also did rooms 1, 25, 36 and 37, the Wizard's design and some entries on the Graffiti table.  I also stated several monsters and foes, and managed faction relations.

Dyson Logos kindly provided the map

Oblidisideryptch: rooms 2 and 17, Cheese theme idea
Vayra :  Name of the dungeon.  Rooms 13, 24, 45 and 46
Thriftomancer OSR server assistance
Sir Onyx:  rooms 6, 7, 9,  26, and 38.  The moon idea.  Graffiti table
Purplecthulhu:   rooms  5, 16 and 49
Random Wizard:  rooms 14  (no blog of yet) 
Corgifan2 :  rooms 15, crawlspace layout
Anne:  rooms 3 and 18
Phlox : rooms 4 and 33 
Mtb-za:  rooms 8 and 34, assistance with map segments (no blog of yet)
Cameron Hawkey for room 10
Studio 315b for rooms 11, 32 and 39
deus ex parabola for room 12
Panic Pillow  room 23 and the corridors above room 12 (no blog of  yet) 
(more to come!)
 
(please let me know if I made an error in the credits!)

Thank you so much to everyone who contributed.  We all hope that you have fun in the Foreboding Fromagerie!

Wednesday, September 23, 2020

GLOG guns math

 I realized I never really explained my logic for my gun damage in my previous post, so here it is.


The basic is, well pretty obvious.  Damage and range both increase with the size of the gun

small pistol 1d6, large pistol 1d8, carbine/arquebus 1d10, musket/full rifle 2d6.  Several others have published better versions of this.  (edit:  and they have 2 points of armor piercing)

That's enough details, we're done.  BUT what if we want a system/setting with more than 1 gun technologies going at once?  There definitely were several periods in history where multiple "levels" of weapon technologies were used at once. That's complicated to achieve.  Modern weapons are usually better in some way - how do we keep older weapons relevant?

So here are some of the ways you can "spread the balance" a bit.


For the matchlock to flintlock era, the way to balance those two is that the early flintlocks (the wheellocks) are quite expensive (usually nobles used them), and are almost never made for muskets.  So matchlocks are much more available, and the biggest one do more damage that the biggest wheellocks.  The PCs will probably try to get them.

A double shot (?) ornate wheellock pistol. MET museum, NYC

From flintlock to caplock.  In this era, a few things are happening.  First a caplock singleshot muzzleloader is not that much greater than a flintlock (effectively, it's more reliable).  So all you need to do to balance those types of guns are costs.  BUT there are also revolvers to consider.  Revolvers are more expensive yes, but *so* much better. Here some balance is achieved  by lower damage (1d6 vs 1d8), this bein because revolvers were of smaller caliber than the one shot pistols.  Also, the advent of paper cartridge has made single shot muzzleloaders a bit faster than before, thus allowing them to attempt to keep up.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Transitional_revolver.jpg


From caplock to metallic cartridge, to maintain balance I had to do a few things - first I'm limiting them to earlier, rimfire cartridge (black-powder) to limit their power (after a while, modern guns are just so much better).  Also, the Minié ball increases the power of the cap and balls revolvers.  Older single shot guns are still in the game because they too get a damage boost - the best metallic cartridge gun does a d10 dmg, while the best single shot muzzleloader does 2d8... but if you step forward a few more decades in history, the muzzleloaders are left far behind, so it's why I am stopping here. 

Sunday, September 20, 2020

The Goblin Laws of Guns

 A lot of GLOG class are starting to use guns (like the Zouave or the Gun Priest).   I proposed the following "system" that will be both historically accurate "ish" and "balanced" for use in play.

The reason I'm doing this is because I'm going to play in a one-shot GLOG game and different players have guns of different tech level.  I am aiming to have something that is both sort of balanced, sort of easy *and* sort of fun.

I will have "elements" of a gun, and then combine them together to make a number of examples.  One thing I won't have is prices for these guns, as they would be heavily campaign and "historical" dependent - what was cutting edge in one century is old surplus in the next.

Design principles

- Guns are less reliable, but no "blow in  your face" unreliable.

- Guns are slow to reload, but advanced guns are better

- Guns do solid damage... but not *that* much damage, especially the pistols.

- Edit: - I need to make this more explicit - somewhat better vs armor


Because this is a long post, I'm going to start with the guns.   Then we'll talk about historical periods, and how guns were used.  Then we'll talk about the technical details.  The "gaming math" will follow in this post.

Pocket pistol (flintlock, smoothbore)

Usable in melee!  Very short range, better than nothing.  1d6 dmg, 10 feet, -2 per 10 feet beyond. 2 rounds to reload.



In your face Pistol (matchlock, flintlock, cap and ball, smoothbore or rifled)

The more of these you have stuffed in your sash, the more bad-ass you are.  1d8 dmg, 1d10 with Minié, base range is 20 feet, -1 per 10 feet, ( or -1 per 20 feet if rifled).  Loading time 2 rounds

Pistolet modèle 1733, By Rama, CC BY-SA 3.0 fr, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=58996270


Pepperbox (cap and ball, smoothbore)

The precursor to the revolver, the gun was not noted for accuracy... but hey, six shot! 1d6 dmg, range 10 feet, -1 to hit per 10 feet beyond, can attack multiple times per round if character is able to, reload time: 2 rounds/chamber


Pocket revolver (rimfire, rifled)

Six shots of anemic 1d4 damage!  The rich have them in engraved nickel plated with ivory handles. 1d4 dmg, range 10 feet, -1 to hit per 10 feet beyond. can attack multiple times per round if character is able to. Reload: 2 cartridge per round

Revolver, cap and ball  (rifled)

A great six shooter, you can depend your life on. 1d6 damage with round ball, or 1d8 with Minié ball.  Range is 20 feet, -1 to hit per 20 feet beyond can attack multiple times per round if character is able to,.  Reload time 2 rounds/chamber

Revolver, rimfire (rifled)

Another great 6-shooter.  You can reload faster now, but have less max damage.  Still hurts!  1d6 damage with .44 Henry.  Range is 20 feet, -1 to hit per 20 feet beyond.  Can attack multiple times per round if character is able to. Reload time 1 round/ two bullets

.44 Henry Colt Army 1860


Zouave Snaphance. (flintlock, smoothbore, but could be cap and ball)

Not an issued weapon, a trophy of war, plunder, booty.  A tool to defend yourself against robbers - or to rob someone.  An oversized pistol, a sawed off blunderbuss.   2d6 dmg with ball, 20 foot range, -1 penalty per 10 feet OR 3d4 damage with shot, 20 foot range, -1 1d4 dmg per 10 feet. Loading time: 3 rounds

By Worldantiques - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36709232


Arquebuse/mousqueton/carbine (matchlock, flintlock, cap and ball), smoothbore

A short handy smoothbore gun. Double barreled cap and boll shotgun were popular.  dmg 1d10,  Range 30 feet, -1 per 10 feet beyond OR 3d3 damage with shot, 20 foot range, -1 1d3 dmg per 10 feet. Loading time: 3 rounds and can fire in the 3rd round.

Musket (matchlock, flintlock, cap and ball), smooth bore

A cumbersome weapon of war.  Matchlock requires brace to fire (fork, wall, fence...).  dmg 2d6 range 40 feet, -10 per 10 feet beyond OR 4d3 damage with shot, 30 foot range, -1 1d3 dmg per 10 feet. Loading time: 3 rounds

Rifle (flintlock, cap and ball)

A potent weapon of war. dmg 2d6 or 2d8 with Minié ball, range 50 feet, -1 per 20 feet beyond. Loading time:  4 rounds, or one round less with Minié ball,

Rifle carbine (flintlock, cap and ball)

A handy weapon for travel or hunting.  1d10 dmg, or 2d6 with Minié ball, range 30 feet, -1 per 20 feet beyond, loading time 3 rounds and can fire in the third, or one round less with Minié ball.

Henry Rifle (rifled, rimfire)

.44 rimfire.  Not very hard hitting, but sooo many bullet, rapid lever action.  Handy too.  1d8 dmg, 15 cartridges - can attack multiple times per round if character is able to, range 30 feet, -1 per 20 feet, loading time 2 cartridges per round + 1 round for magazine manipulation. 

Spencer carbine. (rifled, rimfire)

.56 rimfire. A clunky lever action, slower than the Henry, but bigger bullets.  1d10 dmg, 7 cartridges - can load and attack once per round, range 30 feet, -1 per 20 feet, loading time 4 rounds for 7 cartridge.

This list is, of course, incomplete (edit, I will need to do a post about weird guns).  But I hope it will help GMs having some kind of baseline to make rulings about guns, especially in a game where there may still be bow and crossbow usage, or the possibility of multiple technological levels being present (time travel magic, ancient weapons, technological differences between countries etc).   In no way shape or form feel pressured to use all of them.  A game with just a few gun models is ok.

Older guns are best use in a fire once then close in to melee fashion, unless both sides are happy with staying far and shooting at each other.  They can provide the party with a big "push" of damage in the first round (the crossbow is good for this too).  More modern guns load faster.  The use of paper cartridges and Minié ball allowed for high damage and quick reloads (a carbine can be fired as fast as a crossbow), and revolvers and repeating long guns allowed for very fast firepower, often eclipsing what a melee weapon could do and certainly eclipsing the bow...


Guns and armor:

It's a well known fact that medieval armor didn't deal with guns... but it wasn't entirely useless either.  To avoid making guns too powerful, and to have something easy to remember, I would propose that guns "shave of" a step of defense (from plate to chain, or chain to leather, i.e. ignoring 2 AC) when trying to attack someone wearing armor.   They probably would work even without this rule, but if you want to run a campaign where guns dominate, this would do it.


So, some technical details about guns:

First we are going to talk about the "lock" - the thing that makes the gun go boom.  In historical order, you could make the following order of firearm "eras".  There was some overlap, of course.

1:  Matchlock: A very primitive form of gun, where you have a slow burning cord that ignites the powder - the match.  They fail to ignite on a fumble (see flintlock).  Furthermore, the match can go out if there is strong wind or rain, its glow and smoke can give away your position etc etc... it's a problem. Adds 1 round to loading time (if you rush too much you might ignite the powder with the match!)  Mechanically simple and thus cheaper.  They were all loaded by the muzzle (the front of the gun).  There are even more ancient models which I did not go into.


2:  Flintlock: A number of mechanisms (wheellock, snaplock, "true" flintlock) where a mechanism generates sparks.  On a fumble, the gun fails to ignite.  There is a 50% chance that it can easily be fixed (one round reloading the priming powder) and 50% chance that there is a serious problem - the gun needs to be unloaded because of wet powder and reloaded (doubles the reloading time).  Almost all were muzzle-loaded.

3:  Cap and Ball: Similar to the flintlock, but instead of a spark generator, there is a cap - a small copper device filled with a sensitive chemical - installed on a nipple that is struck with a hammer.  This mechanism is more reliable and doesn't mess up on a fumble.  Cap and Ball guns where usually muzzle loaded but a few were breech-loaded (from the back of the gun).  Also known as percussion guns.

classic percussion shotgun, double barreled.


4: Rimfire: Still used today in the .22, these were the first reliable metal cartridges.  The cartridge is loaded to the rear of the gun, and a hammer hits the rim, which is filled with primer (the sensitive chemical). They had the problem of being less reliable than the cap and ball (on a fumble, the round fails to fire and must be ejected) and low pressure (less damage).  Historical examples include the .44 Henry, the .32 rimfire and the .56 Spencer.  Rimfire guns were often used in revolvers and repeating rifles.   They weren't as powerful, but very useful.

And.... now we stop.  By the time we get to the next step, the center-fire cartridges (more reliable and sometimes more powerful), the guns have gotten "too good", and ranged fire almost completely displaces melee fighting.  We are now playing another game.


Now that we have this covered, let's talk about the "stock" - the size of the gun.  The longer the barrel, the longer the initial (no penalty) range is.  The shoulder stock also helps with aiming.

Pocket pistol:  A small thing that is easily concealed.  Short ranged, low damage.  Became possible with the flint lock - clearly you can't have a matchlock in your pocket....  size is 1/3 of a slot

Saddle pistol:   A large pistol that could be concealed.  The longer barrel and larger caliber increases the damage.  The saddle wheel-lock pistol of noble cavalry, the 6 shooter of the cowboy, the flintlock pistol tucked in the pirate's sash all fit this.  Range is not great.  Takes 1 slot.  Can be used as a club (1d4 damage) in a pinch.   Matchlock pistols did exist.

Carbine:   A small, handy rifle, favored by hunters, cavalry/dragoons, adventurers and scouts.  In earlier time this was the arquebuse or mousqueton, in later time the "Winchester gun" ie the lever gun. They do more damage and have more range than a pistol.  They can also be used as a club by bashing with the shoulder stock (1d4 dmg).

Full sized musket/rifle:  A long, cumbersome affair, had the most damage but a pain to carry (3 slots).  Could have a bayonet that allowed to do 1d6 dmg in melee.  The matchlock musket were so heavy they required something to rest the barrel against - a fence, a wall, or a fork designed specifically for that purpose. 

Now, the barrel.

Smooth bore:  If the gun is smooth-bored, they are easier to load, but they have less range.

Rifle:   Takes longer to reload when muzzled loaded, but have more range - each step beyond the initial range is longer.  Was invented in the flintlock era.

Muzzle loaded:  Cheaper but takes longer to load.

Breach loaded:  More expensive and technologically advanced, faster loading.  Developed in the cap and ball era.

Double barrel:  double the fun, double the cost. A few flintlocks, a lot of smoothbore cap and ball (shotguns). 

Length of the barrel:  Longer guns have more power and range, but are less handy/concealable and take longer to load.

But what are we shooting?

Well the Cartridge:

Loose powder.   There is no cartridge.  You have a ball, some powder, some wadding and a ramming rod.

Paper cartridge:  Everything is measured and organized in advance.  Reduces loading time.   

Cap:   Instead of putting powder in a frizen/touch hole, you could have a sensitive chemical housed in a small copper cap.  Percussion guns, also know at cap and ball, were far more reliable than the flintlocks. The precursor to the primmer.  Most were muzzle loaders, a few cap and ball were breach-locked.

Metallic cartridge:  Like a paper cartridge but even better.  Comes whit its own primer.

Lastly, the bullet.

Ball:  a big round lead ball, the default.  Used in all guns except metallic cartridges. Can be used both in smoothbore and rifled guns, although the later could be difficult to load.

Shot:  a bunch of smaller ball, rocks, nails, coins jammed in there.  Only used in smooth bore guns.  Shot does not take a range penalty, rather a *damage* penalty.  For example, a 2d6 gun loaded with shot would do 3d4.  After the first range increment, the damage would fall to 2d4, then 1d4, then the pellets have spent too much of their energy to do real harm.  Shotgun shells were not available in this era.  

Minié Ball:  A more modern form of bullet - it is easier to load and engages the rifling better, leading to higher velocities, increasing the damage by one step.  The Minié ball was available for late flintlocks, cap and ball guns, and metallic cartridges (sort of).  They weren't used in smoothbore barrels.   They, and derivatives, made firearms far deadlier, and cause war amputations to be far more common du to their tendency to shatter bones.


Magical bullets.  What are we shooting?  +2 bullets?  Homing bullets (advantage to hit)?  Fire bullets, silver bullets, poison bullets?  I don't know!  You make it up.  Have fun, it's magic!  I will note that "older" guns that don't use metallic cartridge may have more flexibility with magical bullets. 

Loading/firing time:

Paper cartridge can be used with muzzle loaded or breech loaded guns.  Reduced the loading time by 1 round.  A trained gunman with decent equipment can make about a dozen such cartridges per hour, but most preferred purchasing them.

Metallic cartridges are fast to load, and the characteristic of the gun become the defining factor in loading time.

Longer barrels take longer to load than pistol *if* the gun is muzzle loaded.

Ball takes longer to load in a muzzle-loaded rifle (but not smooth bore).  The Minié ball does not have this penalty.

Damage depends on the caliber, the length of the barrel, the type of bullet and the use of metallic cartridge - the early ones were often weakly loaded.


Saturday, September 19, 2020

The clockwork Warlock

 One of the interesting things about the 5e warlock is how varied their patrons can be.  Someone (Trappy Jenkins) on the Dungeon Dudes discord wondered "what if this guy was your patron"


by Travis Anderson

A number of good ideas were quickly proposed by many people - I had a small part in it (tiny servant!!!) but this isn't my creation.  But then people wondered "how to preserve this?" - unlike the OSR, there isn't a strong culture of blogging there.  So I offered, and here we are.

Patron abilities:

Biomechatronical Body:
You have sacrificed a piece of your body to your patron and in return they replace your chosen body part with a mechanical copy.
Arm: Gain proficiency in Athletics. +1 to melee attack and damage rolls that use strength using this arm.
Eye: Gain proficiency in perception. +1 to ranged attack and damage rolls. 
Leg: Gain proficiency in acrobatics. +10 speed, +5 jumping distance.
Heart: Gain proficiency in constitution saving throws. Increase maximum HP by 5 and an additional 1 per Warlock level. 

At levels 6, 10, and 14 you may sacrifice and replace another body part.

I note that warlocks almost always have a defensive feature at level 6.  I think the above is very cool but could be expanded a bit.  Perhaps at level 6, the following appears:

Partial exoskeleton:  You encase your torso in metal.  Your base AC is now 14  (treat as medium armor).

Or.   Smoke screen.  As a reaction, you can eject greenish smoke from your body, imposing disadvantage on attacks against you.  The smoke dissipates at the beginning of your next turn.  This power renews after a short or long rests. 

But I am opened to suggestions.  Level 14 deserves a very cool body part too, or perhaps a partial, whole body transformation.

Bonus Spell List (Influenced by artificer)
1st: Grease & Snare 
2nd: Heat metal & Rope Trick
3rd: Stinking Cloud & Tiny Servant
4th: Fabricate & Freedom of Movement
5th: Animate Object & Creation

I note that Tiny Servant is a spell that "up-casts" well and that last 8 hours.  A higher level warlock may have a small army of tiny servants doing his every whim.  A lot of these spells can be "jazzed up" for roleplaying purposes.  Eldritch blast is *definitely* some kind of arm or shoulder cannon, or perhaps an eye-laser.   In a game that allows war-forged, this is a great fit.

There is definitely a lot of potential for roleplay here.  The Iron Kingdoms monster manual had the iron lich ,which were both flavorful and powerful.  The warlock may be pursuing the knowledge to complete this transformation.  Meanwhile, the patron may be requesting of their followers to gather various esoteric items, reagents and parts - clearly they are building some grand artifact that will shake the foundations of the multiverse... the image clearly indicates a personage who is refined, polite but ... ruthless. 

I repeat that this is just a draft, and not play-tested... but clearly this would be a lot of fun, and it again illustrates the strength of the Warlock class in 5e.  Thank you to the DungeonDudes discord community for allowing me to host this neat content :)  

Wednesday, September 16, 2020

Yoon Suin on sale! 1 *pound*



A brief but important post.


by Matthew Adams



A new edition of Yoon Suin is coming out.  As some of you know, I'm a huge fan of the setting.  (Here is a review I wrote for it several years ago... I should post that here too!).  It is the best D&D setting I've purchased in 30 years.

Because the new edition is coming out, the old edition is now available on sale for ONE POUND.  Act now before it's no longer available!









Tuesday, September 15, 2020

The Mercenary Campaign: the petty sell-sword

So

In a mercenary company, there is a certain ... type of member.  They were recruited, but didn't quite turn out to be frontline material.  Still they are useful to have around - they stand guard, dig ditches, and watch your back.  They soak up the wisdom of the mercenaries, and can slowly become more than what they were.

These rules are meant to emulate the petty sell-sword you might hire, or the helpers assigned to you by your commander when he sends you on a mission.  They are not cowards, but they are survivors.  They are there to help you, not die for you.



The Petty sell-sword 

The petty sell-sword has leather armor, a dagger, 3 rations, a shovel,  and a random piece of looted jewelry worth 1d20 sp.

An NPC petty sell-sword has 9 in all stats (starts with 5 hp) and gains one knack per template.  A player who wants to enjoy the murderhobo experience and take this class has *two* knacks per templates and rolls stats normally.  Furthermore, all petty sell-swords can carry 1 extra slot of loot per template.

A  1 (or two) knacks.
B  1 (or two) knacks.
C  1 (or two) knacks.
D  1 (or two) knacks.

Knacks (roll 1d8)

1.  Low cunning.  Gain +2 to stealth and to crude forms of deception (you can disguise yourself as a beggar, but not a noble).  You also gain 1d4 daggers and 1 gold piece per dagger.

2.  Eagle eye.  Gain advantage to perception checks, a lantern and 1d4 silver pieces.

3.  Learned.  You know how to read and write.  If you gain this knack a second time, you learn the history skill and a book. If you gain it a third time, you gain 1 MD and a random wizard spell.

4.  Armored up.  You gain a shield.  If you gain this knack again, your AC increases by 1.

5.  Eating well.  You gain 3 hp and 5 rations

6.  Fell handed.  You gain +2 to your attack score (not +2 attacks per round!)

7.  A true swordsman.  You gain a real sword!  (and are proficient).  Look at that.  If you gain this template again you now have  a two-handed sword.  If you gain it a third time, you gain a +1 dagger

8.  Fight from afar.  You gain a short bow (and are proficient).  If you gain this template again you obtain a crossbow or snaphance.  If you gain it a third time you gain a longbow.

Background:  (1d3)

1.  Peasant.   You are particularly good at handling animals. You have a small donkey.
2.  Brigand.  You have a sling and +2 to set ambushes.
3.  Urchin.  You can pick pockets and have an extra 1d10 silver pieces.

A petty sell-sword expects a pay of 1 gp per month, and a nice bonus if there is a big windfall.  A level 5 NPC petty-sell sword either retires or becomes a minor officer in the company, and is no longer sent out.

The fact that this ruleset would also be good for a "civilized" goblin has not evaded me...

Edit:  this class has been playtested by myself and others.  It is solid for a PC, and immensely useful for NPCs.  It works for brigands, scoundrels, veterans, random adventurers... no goblins that I know of though :D

Saturday, September 12, 2020

The best Glog classes

I'm very busy with the Foreboding Fromagerie project, and it's going quite well.  A lot of good quality material has been submitted, and I have begun the earnest work of tying it all together.

But in the meantime, what about my blog?

Well here is a "low quality" content post - a list of classes I found interesting over the years.  This is by *no means* a complete list.  I'm sure there are wonderful classes out there I have never heard about.  But the following are some I've encountered and took note of for future reference.  Perhaps some of these may go well in your game too?

A Scot has stopped on a mountain path to look at something in the distance
by Lancelot Speed

First, you probably know this one, but I am very fond of Skerple's summoner.  A fun, great "alt-caster" class.

Second, the zouave:  this resulted from a conversation on the OSR discord where someone wanted historical example of interesting fighters, and I told them about the zouave.  They turned around and created this amazing class.
https://as-they-must.blogspot.com/2019/10/gun-on-your-shoulder-class-fighter.html
edit:  Now with an expansion!


The muscle mage - a great example of how zany the GLOG can be
https://unlawfulgames.blogspot.com/2018/05/introduction-and-fullsterkur.html


The Gun Priest:  This is incredibly flavorful and quite playable too:
https://caput-caprae.blogspot.com/2020/08/glog-class-gun-priest.html

The OG wizard (the sage).  Great for a low-magic setting.
https://caput-caprae.blogspot.com/2020/05/glog-class-og-wizard-aka-sage.html

The word barbarian doesn't mean raging shirtless warrior. It means foreigner.  This class does it beautifully:
https://whosemeasure.blogspot.com/2020/08/glog-class-barbarian.html

A durable monk, and flavorful to boot.
https://as-they-must.blogspot.com/2020/08/though-he-were-strong-as-seven-glog.html

So what are classes *you* like.  And don't post your own please ;)

edit:  Oh, it's catching on :D  Phlox (who made the barbarian) chips in! https://whosemeasure.blogspot.com/2020/09/some-of-my-favorite-glog-classes.html

Edit 2:  some more posts on this topic. Some classes I had never seen, and others are coming up more than once...

Xenophon's https://xenophonsramblings.blogspot.com/2020/09/my-favorite-glog-classes.html

BaaL's  https://bugbearslug.blogspot.com/2020/09/my-favourite-glog-classes.html

Vayra's https://madqueenscourt.blogspot.com/2020/09/exemplary-glog-classes.html

Jahael's https://flumph-philosopher.github.io//2020/09/13/favorite_classes/